

Right now we are in a place called Zhongdian, in south west China. The govt has actually renamed the place Shangri-la, claiming it to be the location of the famous book about the last paradise on Earth. It’s a nice place but I think the claim is a bit of a stretch. We have been forced to extend our stay here as I was bitten by a dog while trekking (will come back to that), and have to undergo a series of injections so I don’t die a horrible death of rabies. Looks like I will live though.
Zhongdian is at an altitude of 3,200m, so even scaling a tiny flight of stairs leaves you stuffed at the top. The next stop is Litang which is at 4,100m, though the bus has to climb to 5,500m to get there, so hopefully I will be able to walk let alone climb stairs.
Had my b’day here yesterday, which ended up being a very good day (thanks to Naomi), and went to a really nice restaurant (talking 1 to 1, the meal cost $150, which is about 15 nights in a hostel, or about 150 bowls of noodles!).
We have been back on the road from Nanjing for about 3 weeks now, and loving moving to a different place every few days, and sleeping on trains, trying to talk with the chain smoking Chinese guys we share the compartment with. Nanjing was a great city, and we met some great people, and the ease of life will be missed. Teaching was a good experience, though not sure if I will be jumping at the chance anytime soon. Some of the kids were great and really made your day, but others deserved to be beaten (joking!). I feel sorry for any teachers I ever gave trouble to!
First stop after Nanjing was Huang Shan (yellow mountain), one of the most famous in China. It was absolutely spectacular, and I have never seen anything like it in my life. The hike up the stairs was a bit tricky though. After that was Yangshou, which has probably been our favourite place in China so far. You have probably seen photos of it (the area for hundreds of km’s has these hills jutting out of the ground). Great to ride a bike around in the country side, swim in the river and relax.
We caught a bamboo boat down river, and had a natural mud bath in a cave (see photo of my white ass). The local food markets were also great for atmosphere. Great food, but had some strange things on the menu, and has been the first place we have seen dog being served (apparently only common in south China and Korea). I was tempted to try, but not sure if I can. Plus Naomi wouldn’t be too happy.
After that was Kunming, the capital of Yunnan province (we are in the north of Yunnan now). Not much t

o say as it was a really boring city.
Yunnan is full of minority groups, so each town we have been to since has had different ways of life to the rest of China which has been very interesting to see.
Dali, centre Yunnan, is a very laid back place with an old town which looks good, but is basically a whole heap of shops selling tourist crap. We managed to get out of town for the day though, and had a personal tour through a traditional village (not any tourists at all which was great), and the local market, which sold everything you could think of (cows, horses, dogs, chickens, tobacco etc), and people were even getting their teeth and eyes looked at next to where they were selling chili and sugar. It was huge, and the most interesting thing we have done in China. Dali itself was full of western restaurants and bars, and hippy’s were everywhere. Little old ladies would walk up to you pretending to show you something, and whisper ¡®smokey¡ganja¡.hashy?’ The hostel we were at, while very good, was full of hippy’s who did nothing all day
but smoke, give each other massages, meditate, paint, and walk around the grass area very slowly. Some had been there months and barely ventured out of the hostel. Strange bunch.
Next was Lijiang, another old town with wooden buildings and cobbled lanes (no cars in the area was a very pleasant change), but was even more orientated towards tourists than Dali. Not as many hippy’s though. The main bar strip had bar after bar on either side of a canal, and staff and customers would yell at each other across the canal. The louder and more insulting your chant was, the better. Cool to see, but half an hour of hundreds of people yelling at each other in Chinese was enough. The hostel we stayed at was great, and had the cheapest food and beer we have had in China yet.
We then trekked the Tiger Leaping Gorge, one of the deepest gorges in the world (4000m from the Yangzi River below to the snow capped peaks above). It was absolutely spectacular, and you feel dwarfed by the mountains. Unfortunately on the second day, a dog decided to have a go at my leg, so had to cut it short a little bit, and get to the next big town to get my rabies shots. It was stressful as you have to get the shots done within 24 hours, and our advice from doctors in Perth was to fly to Hong Kong immediately, but the town we are in had the stuff I needed. Big thanks to two Chinese guys we met on the bus (Ray and Eric) that helped us enormously.
That brings me up to the now. Got the 11 hour bus ride tomorrow (only 150 km, but up a very big hill), and Tibetan culture for the next week. Hope everyone is well back home (and friends we have made around the world).
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PS. This was written a couple of days ago, and we are now in a place called Litang (the high place I was talking about). The 2 day bus ride here was long and rough, but absolutely stunning scenery. 6000m high mountains, deep valleys and gorges, rolling green hills, tibetan villages, Tibetan nomad tents and herds of Yaks grazing (yak is quite nice by the way). It really was great. We had to stop at a small place overnight (it was a hole and not worth talking about), but when we got there, we had the usual people trying to get us to stay at their guesthouse. Two women starting fighting over our business, and it got very rough. The older woman had the younger ones hair in her mouth and wouldn’t let go, and they were both on the ground. Both were bleeding at the end. We were just sitting back watching, both amused and disgusted.
Litang is a real Tibetan town (long history and two Dali Lamas came from here). Tomorrow we are going to a horse racing festival (they have real cowboys here), and the day after a sky burial (Tibetan funeralsconsist of the dead being chopped upin front of a crowd, and fed to vultures). We have talked to locals and its ok to come, and they even encourage attendance (no photos though). Will not be getting too close though, as we have heard its very graphic.
Labels: China